In the center of Italy lies the land-locked region of Umbria.  The name derives from the Umbri, a population that colonized the area nearly three thousand years ago.  Umbria is a rural region that has been called il cuore verde d’Italia, “the green heart of Italy”, with its lush countryside that lies in the exact geographic center of the country.  Umbria, in its placid beauty, is overshadowed to the north by Tuscany, whose capital, Florence, has long been considered the center of Western art, and to the south by Lazio, which boasts Rome, the capital of Italy.

The hill town of Todi stands majestically in the cuore of Umbria, rising nearly 1,000 feet from the Tiber River that flows along its northwestern side and surrounded by verdant valleys and the two spines of the Apennine mountains that flank it far in the distance to the east and west.  Todi is not the oldest town in Italy, but is arguably one of the most historic, having survived nearly three millennia.  Growth occurred throughout those centuries by adding on to what existed before, and the current architecture is frozen in the Renaissance era.  The stone construction that required unimaginable effort, guaranteed permanence as Todi’s buildings look much like they did over 400 years ago.  I love Todi for its history.  It is a mystical town whose indestructible stone buildings have stood for centuries; a proud, peaceful old hill town where people have lived their lives in serenity, largely untrammeled by the commercialism that has invaded so much of central Italy.

Over a decade ago I became personally familiar with Todi’s historic location on the top of a double-peaked hill, surrounded by stone walls that were never breached in its nearly 3,000-year history.  My wife, Denise, and I attempted to ride our road bikes up the steep hill from Ponte Rio, leading to Porta Perugina, the northern entrance to the ancient town.  Despite using the lowest of twenty gears, we were forced to walk.  When we reached the top, coursing through narrow streets lined by stone houses dating from the Renaissance, we were shocked at the simple beauty of the central piazza, Piazza del Popolo, formerly the Roman forum 2,000 years ago.  The Duomo (cathedral) proudly overlooks the piazza, its impressive rose window and wide, steep staircase proclaiming its majesty.  We walked along the piazza and marveled at the public buildings dating back over 700 years, as well as the flanking palazzi of wealthy Renaissance families.  We walked past an archway just off the piazza where we discovered La Lingua La Vita, a small language school that has existed since 1988.

Our next visit to Todi was a one-month immersion with no TV, no radio, no car — and no ability to speak Italian.  We had enrolled in the language school and planned to spend our free time exploring the town and its environs.  We rented a tiny apartment, opening onto a stone staircase that leads from a quiet street near the Porta Aurea and rises steeply several hundred feet, through an Etruscan arch over 2,500 years old and ends alongside Todi’s second major church, San Fortunato, the dominant building at the top of the hill where the Umbri first created the town.  Its 14th-century bell tower can be seen for miles around and is the distinctive feature, recognizable by all, of the Todi skyline.

Our landlady and her husband showed us a few historic sites in Todi, then dropped us off at our apartment.  As they departed, she smiled and said, “Tornero alle sei con gli asciugamani”; we understood nothing.  She returned promptly at six with another wide smile and a set of towels.  I still remember my first Italian word, asciugamani (towels)!  All month long we met pleasant, welcoming Todi residents, whether enjoying cappuccino on the piazza, ordering dinner at a ristorante, or buying groceries.  Our Italian lessons were fun, if not fruitful.  But we discovered Todi and its history, walked every street in the town and hiked among the sunflower fields next to the Tiber.

On one occasion we met Teresa, a pleasant woman with an open, friendly expression.  She was walking slowly but comfortably up a steep, winding street toward the Piazza del Popolo.  We labored mightily in the heat but gradually overtook her.  She greeted us with a melodic “Buongiorno”; we responded in kind, and walked along with her.  When we reached the central piazza she invited us to her home, behind a high wall and overlooking the vast valley below and the convent of Montesanto, on a hill in the distance.  She called over the wall and her husband, Claudio, opened the door.  We became fast friends almost immediately and were charmed by Claudio’s excellent English-speaking skill.  Over time we were drawn back to Todi.  Claudio and Teresa’s friendship and the serenity of this historic hill town, standing unobtrusively and devoid of the swarms of tourists in nearby towns like Assisi, acted as a magnet for us.  Claudio and I collaborated on a book, Todi Walking Tours for English-speaking Visitors, that allowed us to catalogue over thirty points of interest, mostly “off the beaten path”, and little known to casual tourists.

I learned about Bishop Angelo Cesi, a 16th/17th century religious and political leader who played a major role in establishing the architectural highlights of Todi that are prominent to this day.  I also learned of Todi’s most famous son, fra Jacopone.  A mystic who followed in the footsteps of St. Francis of Assisi, Jacopone taught simplicity and humility and is considered one of the most important Italian religious poets.  Today, when I walk through Todi, I feel the spirit of his teachings and example, seven hundred years later.

I learned about the bronze statue of Mars that was buried by the Etruscans on a hillside next to Todi about 2,500 years ago and was unearthed in the 19th century by a farmer tilling his field.  I learned about the different cultures that populated Todi for nearly three millenia.  I have stood at the cedar tree that was planted in honor of Giuseppe Garibaldi in 1859, as he led the way to the founding of Italy as a country in 1861.  The tree still stands today in the spot that once was a Roman theater, overlooking the valley far below.

How could I not fall in love with Todi, having met its friendly, welcoming citizens and having uncovered its rich history, little known to many in the outside world. Todi is a special place and I feel privileged to have found it. It is truly il cuore del cuore verde d’Italia!